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Inside, workers wear hairnets, hard hats, goggles, gloves, and earplugs. Ten production lines snake through the space, funneling local spring water into 8 ounce to 2. About 6. 0 percent of the supply comes from Mecostas springs and arrives at the factory via a 1. The rest is trucked in from neighboring Osceola County, about 4. Daily, were looking at 3. Dave Sommer, the plants 4. Silos holding 1. 25 tons of plastic resin pellets provide the raw material for the bottles. Theyre molded into shape at temperatures reaching 4. F before being filled, capped, inspected, labeled, and laser printed with the location, day, and minute they were produceda process that takes less than 2. Next, the bottles are bundled, shrink wrapped onto pallets, and picked up by a fleet of 2. As many as 1. 75 trucks arrive every day to transport the water to retail locations in the Midwest. We want more people to drink water, keep hydrated, Sommer says. Whocrashed Portable'>Whocrashed Portable. It would be nice if it were my water, but we just want them to drink water. Water bottles in motion at the Nestl Ice Mountain facility in Stanwood, Mich. PHOTOGRAPHER BRENDAN GEORGE KO FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEKNestl SA started bottling in 1. Henri Nestl purchased a business on Switzerlands Monneresse Canal. Ever the curious scientist, he analyzed and experimented with the enrichment of water with a variety of minerals, always with a singular goal to provide healthy, accessible, and delicious refreshment, reads Nestls website. Today there are thousands of bottled water companies worldwidetheres even Trump Icebut Nestl is the biggest globally in terms of sales, followed by Coca Cola, Danone, and. Pepsi. Co, according to Euromonitor International. Nestl Waters, the Paris based subsidiary, owns almost 5. Perrier, S. Pellegrino, and. Poland Spring. Last year, U. S. bottled water sales reached 1. Beverage Marketing Corp. They outpaced soda sales for the first time as drinkers continue to seek convenience and healthier options and worry about the safety of tap water after the high profilecontamination in Flint, Mich., about a two hour drive from Mecosta. Nestl alone sold 7. Michigan, where the company bottles Ice Mountain Natural Spring Water and Pure Life, its purified water line. The Michigan operation is only one small part of Nestl, the worlds largest food and beverage company. But it illuminates how Nestl has come to dominate a controversial industry, spring by spring, often going into economically depressed municipalities with the promise of jobs and new infrastructure in exchange for tax breaks and access to a resource thats scarce for millions. Where Nestl encounters grass roots resistance against its industrial strength guzzling, it deploys lawyers where its welcome, it can push the limits of that hospitality, sometimes with the acquiescence of state and local governments that are too cash strapped or inept to say no. There are the usual costs of doing business, including transportation, infrastructure, and salaries. But Nestl pays little for the product it bottlessometimes a municipal rate and other times just a nominal extraction fee. In Michigan, its 2. A bridge at sunset in Evart, Mich. PHOTOGRAPHER BRENDAN GEORGE KO FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEKThe Romans were among the first to see water as more than a basic need. They ranked theirs by taste Aqua Marcia, from a spring about 6. Rome, was among the best. In the 1. 9th century, some of the first mass market brands were S. Pellegrino and Vittel, now owned by Nestl, and Evian, a Danone label. Sales were driven by taste, as well as the age old notion that the mineral contents are therapeutic, curing ailments from hangovers to kidney stones. But mineral water consumption in America cratered in the early 2. Bay City Rollers here. U. S. Food and Drug Administration made it harder to tout medicinal benefits without expensive testing. Today, Americans often drink bottled water for what they hope is not in it. Fears about what comes out of the tap arent completely unfounded 7. Americans are served by water systems that violate testing requirements or rules about contamination in drinking water, according to the Natural Resources Defense Council. In agriculture heavy regions, pesticides, fertilizers, and nitrates from animal waste leach into the ground. Despite the Safe Drinking Water Act of 1. The Trump administrations Environmental Protection Agency is also attempting to roll back existing regulations. That said, bottled water isnt necessarily more pure than tap. In the U. S., municipalities with 2. Bottled water companies arent required to monitor their reserve or report contamination, although Nestl says it tests its water hourly. Theres also the issue of scarcity. The United Nations expects that 1. Supply may be compromised in the U. S., too. A recent Michigan State University study predicts that more than a third of Americans might not be able to afford their water bills in five years, with costs expected to triple as World War II era construction breaks down. Failing infrastructure has already led to a near total reliance on bottled water in parts of the world. Nestl started selling Pure Life in Lahore, Pakistan, in 1. But locals wonder if the Swiss multinational is exacerbating the problem. Twenty years ago, you could go anywhere in Lahore and get a glass of clean tap water for free, says Ahmad Rafay Alam, an environmental lawyer in the country. Now, everyone drinks bottled water. He adds that this change has taken the pressure off the government to fix its utilities, degrading the quality of Lahores supply What Nestl did is use a good marketing scheme to make tap water uncool and dangerous. Its ubiquitous, like Kleenex. People will say, Give me a bottle of Nestl. Nestl has been preparing for shortages for decades. The companys former chief executive officer, Helmut Maucher, said in a 1. New York Times Springs are like petroleum. You can always build a chocolate factory. But springs you have or you dont have. His successor, Peter Brabeck Letmathe, who retired recently after 2. One perspective held by various NGOswhich I would call extremeis that water should be declared a human right. The other view is that water is a grocery product. And just as every other product, it should have a market value. Public outrage ensued. Brabeck Letmathe says his comments were taken out of context and that water is a human right. He later proposed that people should have free access to 3. Compared with the water needs of agriculture and energy production, the bottled water business is barely responsible for a trickle in Michigan, it accounts for less than 1 percent of total water usage, according to Michigans Department of Environmental Quality DEQ. But it rankles many because the natural resource gets hauled out of local watersheds for private profit, not used in the service of feeding people or keeping their lights on. Theres also, of course, the issue of plastic pollution.